Scallion Pancakes (Flatbreads)

     The distinctive scent of hot water poured over flour transports me back to my Poh Poh’s kitchen.  She is my maternal grandmother, who would let me join her in making dim sum nibbles whenever we visited.  These are some of my earliest cooking memories; I was probably not yet five years old and kneeling on a kitchen chair to reach her tabletop.

     Back then, dim sum was not readily available commercially.  So we made BBQ pork buns, shrimp and pork dumplings, turnip cakes and even fried sesame balls in her kitchen.  My earliest creations were “worms”, made from rolling bits of dough between the palms of my hand and the tabletop, which she would steam throughout the dim-sum-making-process.  With a splash with soy sauce, these would be gobbled up before we could roll out the next batch.  My next task was cutting out the squares of paper upon which we placed the stuffed BBQ pork buns and then patiently awaited the yeasted dough’s rise before steaming.  Finally she taught me how to pleat and pinch har gow pouches, the tender shrimp dumplings that was (and remains) my favorite.  These had to hold together through the steaming and be attractive too!

     February 19^th marks the Chinese year 4,712, the year of the Sheep (or Goat or Ram).  Asian families ring in the New Year with festivals, family and food, sometimes beginning a few weeks in advance, and certainly on the new year’s eve.

     Here’s a recipe that’s easy enough to prepare for novice cooks.  It is a perfect recipe to make with your family and friends.  Call these pancakes or flatbreads, they are a versatile accompaniment befitting many cuisines.  You will see them on Asian menus as “Green Onion Pancakes” or “Onion-Chive Pancakes” or something similar.  This speaks to their versatility for fillings and flavors.

     Traditional Chinese pancakes did not include bacon.  But I use this technique with numerous fillings and accompanying oils.  Any savory combination of onions, scallions, garlic chives and cilantro will fit the bill. These flatbreads are great on their own, with soup or a bowl of chili.

Scallion and Bacon Pancakes (Flatbread)

Recipe adapted from Rhoda Yee and Martin Yan

Makes four,  5” flatbreads.  Recipe doubles easily–and you’ll be glad you did!

• 2/ 3 cup all-purpose flour
• 1/ 4 cup very hot water
• 1/ 4 cup green onion, thinly sliced crosswise
• 2 strips bacon, fried crisp and crumbled
• 1/ 2 teaspoon red pepper flakes, to taste and optional
• 1/ 8 cup melted lard, ghee or oil
• 1/ 2 teaspoon sea salt
• Additional oil for cooking

Preparation

1. Use a large, wide mixing bowl.  Pour the hot water over the flour and mix with a fork until most of the water is absorbed and begins to hold together.  Begin kneading the dough in the bowl, adding scant amounts of flour if needed; then knead until the dough is smooth and satiny, about five minutes.  Cover the ball of dough with a slightly damp towel or plastic wrap.  Let rest for 20 minutes.
2. Cut the dough into four equal portions.  Working with one piece at a time on a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a circle about 1/ 8-inch thick.  Spread a thin layer of melted lard (or ghee, or oil) on the dough; sprinkle evenly with salt and 1 tablespoon of green onions and bacon.  Add a few red pepper flakes, to taste (optional).  Roll up jelly roll style, pulling from the center into an even roll about 8-inches long.
3. Coil the dough into a round patty and tuck the end tip underneath the patty.  Roll out again into about a 5-inch round.  Dust with additional flour as needed during the rolling to avoid the dough sticking to your work surface.  Repeat with remaining portions of dough.
4. Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium heat.  Add 1 tablespoon of lard, ghee or oil to the pan and swirl to evenly coat the bottom of the pan.  Slip flatbreads into the pan, making sure none overlap.  Brown on the first side, about two minutes; and then turn over to brown the other side.  Adjust heat as needed to ensure flatbreads are cooked through and develop a crisp outer layer.  Repeat with remaining flatbreads, adding more oil as needed.  Slice each flatbread into wedges and serve hot.

Flatbreads may be cooked in advance and stored, tightly covered, in the refrigerator.  Reheat in a lightly oiled skillet over medium heat.

Postscript:

To see just how far I could go with different fillings, I created a sweet version using melted butter, brown sugar, cinnamon and raisins!  Pretty.  Darn.  Tasty.